Grand Rapids, MI — National Nail announces its CAMO® Structural Screws have been selected by Hardware & Building Supply (HBS) Dealer magazine for its prestigious 2023 Golden Hammer Awards. Judged by the magazine’s editorial staff, the awards highlight the home improvement industry’s “best of the best” products. 

“We’ve known all along that our CAMO Structural Screws were something special. From the depth of the offerings to the superior coating to the fact they don’t just meet code, they crush it; we’re just so proud of this product line,” said W. Scott Baker, CEO, National Nail. “Thank you HBSDealer for the honor of recognizing them as a 2023 Golden Hammer Award winner.”   

CAMO Structural Screws offers a full line of high-performing, code-compliant structural screws for all your deck and framing needs. They are engineered to start fast, drive smooth, and hold strong. No pre-drilling required. Features our industry-leading proprietary coating for superior corrosion resistance. Structural Screws are available for all your wood-to-wood structural fastening needs, including multi-ply, ledger, framing, truss, and more. 

The 2023 Golden Hammer Winners will be formally announced in the March 2024 issue of HBSDealer. This follows the “Golden Hammer Products & Purpose Awards celebration” in Las Vegas on Feb. 27th.

Click here to learn more about CAMO’s Structural Screws. 

About CAMO

CAMO exists to provide the best deck fastening installation experience for hardworking doers who take pride in their work and value their wallet. CAMO products are engineered to save you time and ensure your work looks and performs as you expect it should. CAMO®. The Better Way to Build a Deck. For more information or to locate a dealer, visit the CAMO Fasteners website or call 1-800-968-6245.

Be sure to “Like” @camofasteners on Facebook and @camodeckfasteners on Instagram. Search CAMO Fasteners on YouTube to find our channel.

Media Contact

Katey Dommenick, CAMO®, 1-616-261-2134, katey_dommenick@nationalnail.com

Keep your deck looking its best, and get it ready for next summer by following a few simple deck maintenance steps.

Summer is wrapping up, and winter is right around the corner, whether you like it or not. We all know that after months of cold ahead, that spring fever will set in, and nothing will be better than enjoying the fresh air on your deck.

However, many homeowners have to dedicate weekends in early spring to prepare their decks for the season—especially those with pressure treated decks that need to be cleaned and stained. If you want to skip right to enjoying your deck when the weather turns, there’s no better way to save time than to give your deck some TLC this fall by following these simple steps.

Thoroughly Clean Your Deck

By the end of summer, your deck has probably seen a fair share of meals, parties, and life in general, which means spills of food, drinks, and sunscreen. A great first deck maintenance step is to clean your deck.

Start by moving your furniture off the deck and sweeping your boards or using a leaf blower to remove any debris on the deck top, paying special attention to the gaps between boards where dirt can accumulate. After sweeping, lightly power-wash or scrub the boards with warm water and mild deck cleaning solution. For wood decks, you can use a harder bristle broom to get into the wood grain, but for composite boards, stick with a soft-bristled broom to do the job and prevent scratches. No matter your boards, always remember to sweep with the grain to reduce the potential for damage.

Inspect and Repair

After a good clean, you can examine the deck for any repairs you may need to make. If you see something wrong with a board now, colder temperatures and wet weather certainly won’t make it better by spring. Double-check the fasteners to see if there are any loose ones, check the security of the deck railings and the stairs, and even take a peek below the deck to evaluate the joists for any signs of rot.

If you have a wood deck, give your deck a barefoot walk-over to see if any spots may need to be sanded to prevent future splinters and slivers. Now is also an excellent time to check for any chips in the paint or stain and ensure any exposed wood is sealed and protected from wintry elements.

Get Your Deck Ready for Winter

If you plan on hanging out on your deck long into the fall, that’s great—just be sure to regularly sweep off leaves and debris so they don’t accumulate. Then, when it’s time to head inside for the winter, properly winterize your deck by covering your furniture or, ideally, storing it inside. If you notice some wear and tear on your furniture, like rust forming on chair legs, take the time now to clean, sand, and repaint them so they are set and ready come spring. Your future self will thank you.

Maintaining Your Deck Through Winter

If you live in an area that experiences heavy snowfall, be sure to clear the snow off of your deck promptly. Not only does snow add lots of moisture to your boards, but it can also put significant weight on your deck. Lighten the load by shoveling the top few layers of snow— don’t shovel your boards directly —then use a soft-bristled push broom to clear the rest of the snow from your boards if desired.

Deck maintenance doesn’t have to be a monumental chore. Following these simple steps will keep your deck in great shape and maximize your time to enjoy your outdoor living space.

5 Simple steps to make your deck framing last just as long as your boards. 

These days a common goal with deck building is to install long-lasting boards that require little maintenance so homeowners can simply enjoy their outdoor living space. Popular composite boards even boast 30-year warranties. While your boards can go the distance, you have to ask the question: can the deck substructure?

If you’re using steel framing, then the answer is yes. However, most of the market uses pressure treated lumber for the substructure, and for good reason. It’s more readily available, accessible, and affordable, and great fastening systems make for easy connections. But the life expectancy of pressure treated lumber is around 15 years.

Luckily, there are 5 simple steps to follow that will help you prevent rot and extend the life of your deck substructure so you can enjoy your deck for decades to come.

1. Prepare Your Framing

You will have to cut your treated lumber to the correct size for your project. The treatment in pressure treated lumber is only on the surface level, so as soon as you cut the lumber, the cut end is susceptible to water and insect rot.

To ensure proper treatment of your lumber, make your cuts and immediately use a sealant to treat the cut ends. Liberally applying a sealant will preserve the lumber and seal out moisture it comes in contact with.

2. Properly Flash the Ledger Board

It’s critical to prevent water and moisture buildup where the deck connects to the house through the ledger board. Fine Homebuilding lays out a step-by-step process to properly install and flash the ledger board, but you should always check with local building codes for what is required in your area.

Typically, after removing the home’s siding, you will want to apply flashing tape to the house wrap, then secure your ledger board. Flashing tape ensures that water won’t get into the sheathing, as the tape will self-seal around the fasteners. Additionally, you can use more flashing tape on the top of the ledger board to direct water away from the house or use a combination of tape and metal or vinyl flashing strips.

3. Use Joist Tape

Since water can get trapped between the deck boards and the joists, a simple and affordable preventative measure is using joist tape. This flexible flashing membrane acts as a moisture barrier wherever water could pool. 

There are various options on the market, but CAMO Joist + Ledger Deck Tape delivers reliable and affordable moisture protection for both deck joists and ledgers. It features a high-performance butyl hybrid adhesive with a high-strength non-slip polypropylene backing. CAMO Deck Tape will self-seal around nails and fasteners, blocking water from entering the wood and preventing wood rot and lumber breakdown. CAMO Deck Tape is made in the USA, backed by a 20-year warranty, and is available in three widths for job site convenience.

Plus, it’s super easy to install. Just ensure the surfaces are clean and dry, then peel back the release paper, apply the tape to the surface and press it into place, cutting the tape at your desired length. With joists, make sure the tape overhangs the side of the joist. Be sure to cover multi-ply beams and blocking entirely, and don’t forget the rim joist. Covering the rim joist will prevent moisture and rot between it and the fascia boards.

4. For Elevated Decks, Install a Drainage System

If your deck is elevated and you have livable space underneath that you want to utilize, consider installing an under-deck drainage system. These systems completely cover the joists and act as gutters for your deck, keeping the space below dry. Just be sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions, or water may be able to seep through the seams and still penetrate the wood framing.

5. Install Boards Correctly and Maintain Them

This step may seem like a no-brainer, but installing your boards with the correct spacing will allow for airflow and drainage of water and debris between your boards and joists. Place your boards too tightly, and you’re inviting unwanted debris to build up in the gaps, which will lead to rot.

In addition to proper installation, regularly sweeping away dirt, debris, and leaves and washing composite boards with warm soapy water a couple of times a year will preserve the life of your deck. The same applies to wood decking, but you’ll want to go the extra mile to clean, stain, or seal your deck so the boards don’t crack, split, or rot.

In the grand scheme of your deck build, some solutions like joist tape add only a few dollars to your project but are the most effective insurance to avoid substructure rot. Go the extra mile and follow these steps to build a better deck and protect your investment for years to come.

Move over concrete—there’s a new and better floating foundation. 

When they first hit the market, concrete blocks seemed like the greatest thing since sliced bread. They were easily accessible and saved time compared to digging holes and pouring and curing concrete for foundations of freestanding outdoor projects. But now there’s a new product on the block that’s an easier, faster, and better way to create above-ground decks, platforms, and projects—the CAMO® BLOCK™.

While both concrete deck blocks and CAMO BLOCK are suitable for low-profile structures less than 30 in. tall, one is called the better floating foundation for a reason. We put the CAMO BLOCK head-to-head with old concrete blocks to see how they stack up and help you decide what to use for your next project.

Weight and Size

Concrete blocks are around 40 pounds each, so they’re good for getting a workout in, but all that heavy lifting may hurt your back. CAMO BLOCK, on the other hand, is heavy-duty without being heavy. It’s 18X lighter than concrete blocks, weighing in at 2.16 pounds.

Just because concrete blocks are heavier doesn’t mean they’re stronger. Thanks to its wide footprint that disperses weight and provides stability, each CAMO BLOCK is load-rated to support 1800 pounds, while concrete blocks are load-rated to 1700 pounds.

When it comes to portability, BLOCK wins hands down. Have you ever tried to stack a couple of concrete blocks? Or have you had to make return trips to the store to break up a load of concrete blocks on your truck? That’s not the case with CAMO BLOCK, which nests together for easy transport. You could even have a stack of CAMO BLOCK sitting in the passenger seat of a car if you wanted.

Installing Deck Blocks

We’ve already established that CAMO BLOCK is lightweight, so it’s easy to unload and move around the job site. Concrete blocks? Not so much. It’ll take more time and stress on your body to place them.

You must install CAMO BLOCK and concrete blocks on stable, packed ground. However, with the CAMO BLOCK, if the ground is level and undisturbed, you can simply remove grass and loose soil and place the BLOCK. But for the best practice installation that ensures proper drainage and a better-built deck, remove a couple of inches of topsoil, fill and compact the paver base until it’s level, then set BLOCK. If you’re using concrete blocks, you’ll also want proper drainage beneath each block to slow deterioration and prolong its life.

CAMO BLOCK is ready to use as is. They are precision-molded to fit standard lumber specifications, including 4×4 posts, 6×6 posts, 2×4, 2×6, and 2×8 wood joists, and 2 in. metal joists. Nothing about a concrete block screams precision, so you’ll spend time chipping out slots or shimming joists to get your lumber to fit. Additionally, if you’re using posts with concrete blocks, you’ll want to secure them to the pier blocks using post anchors, which is another step BLOCK doesn’t require.

Check out the BLOCK installation guide if you want more in-depth information about using BLOCK on your project. The guide covers everything from spacing, and the do’s and don’ts to step-by-step instructions for various decking projects.

Durability

Your outdoor project will be exposed to some elements. Luckily, BLOCK is made from Polyolefin, which will not chip or crack, even in cold weather, and is UV-protected so that they won’t fade. Plus, BLOCK has vents to drain water away from joists and posts and prevent moisture buildup, rot, and mold, where concrete blocks absorb moisture, crack, and crumble.

In addition to being durable, BLOCK is also a sustainable choice. They are made from a recycled material that can also be recycled at the end of its life. That’s better than hauling old concrete blocks to the dump. 

Price

Regarding price, CAMO BLOCK is marginally more expensive than a concrete block—we’re talking dollars and cents. But you will not kill your body hefting them into your car, you can make one trip with all the BLOCKS you need without taxing your vehicle, and you will save time installing them. As if you need more to say BLOCK is worth it, maybe knowing you built a better deck and having a 30 year warranty will do the trick.

In the deck block stack up, there’s one clear winner. Whether you’re building a floating deck, rooftop deck, pool deck, landing, walkway, shed, or dog house, there’s no better floating foundation than the CAMO BLOCK.

Learn about the ins and outs of pressure-treated decking and how to handle its tendency to warp.

You’re in good company if you desire a traditional pressure-treated deck. Even though composite decking is on the rise, more than 70% of decks in America have pressure-treated decking. The relatively inexpensive material is easily accessible and simple to install, and you can customize the finish with whatever color stain you choose. Plus, it’s treated to resist moisture, rot, and insects, so you can enjoy your deck for years to come.

However, this pressure treatment process displays one of the most significant issues with pressure treated decking—it is notorious for warping. Let’s cover why boards warp in the first place, how to pick the best ones for your project, storing boards before installation, and handling warped boards while building.

Why Pressure Treated Decking Warps

American eBuilder details the treatment process, noting that the boards are put into a tank to remove any air in the wood before flushing the boards with chemicals (and water) to resist moisture and insects. This process leaves the boards very wet, making them swell and prone to drying out unevenly. According to The DIY Plan, the wood fibers contracting at different rates shift the overall lay of the fibers, resulting in warping, bowing, cupping, or twisting.

While this first occurs during the treatment process, pressure treated decking continues to undergo these stresses of swelling and drying unevenly each time it gets wet.

How to Pick The Best Pressure Treated Deck Boards

While every pressure treated board is susceptible to warping, there are things you can look for when selecting your decking to get the best boards for the job. The DIY Plan has a comprehensive list of what to look for when selecting pressure treated lumber, which includes looking at the end of the boards when they are in a stack and selecting boards that have narrow growth rings and don’t have the pith (the dark center of the tree) as wood is more likely to move and twist around the pith. It’s also best to select boards where the grain runs straight along the face of the board and to leave any board that already has some curve. Finally, try to purchase the driest pressure treated decking to save time drying it out. Bring a wood moisture meter to check on the moisture content of the boards while at the store.

Alternatively— and if your budget allows —consider buying Kiln-Dried After Treatment (KDAT) decking instead of wet pressure treated boards. As its name suggests, these boards are dried evenly in a kiln after treatment to reduce potential warping, cupping, or twisting. KDAT decking is more expensive; however, if you purchase wet pressure treated boards, you will spend more time allowing them to dry out before installing them.

Storing Boards Properly Before Install

While you can install wet boards as is, you may not have consistent gapping once the boards have dried out, and it adds a lot of stress for your fasteners to keep the boards down. The better option is to allow your decking to dry before installation but be warned: this can take up to a couple of weeks with wet pressure treated decking.

There are a few steps to drying the decking as evenly as possible. First, choose a flat area protected from potential rain. Then lay the decking flat across additional lumber and place stickers between rows to allow for ventilation. Don’t place your decking directly on grass or concrete since the wood will absorb moisture. Finally, put heavy weights, like concrete blocks, on top of the pile of boards to keep the boards as straight as possible.

How to Install Pressure Treated Deck Boards 

Before you install the deck boards, pay special attention to your framing to ensure your decktop has the best chance to dry evenly whenever it rains. Be sure the structure allows for proper drainage and airflow to prevent moisture retention in the boards. Your deck surface should be sloped a minimum of 1/4 in. per 12 feet of horizontal run to allow for moisture run-off, and you must have unobstructed airflow under 50% of the deck to allow for sufficient cross ventilation from one side to the other.

When you place the boards, think, “frown down.” That means the rings on the deck board ends are facing downward— the direction of a frown —when laid flat on the joists for fastening. Doing this will reduce the natural tendency for the board to cup upward when it dries.

Spacing is also important to consider. If you install wet boards with a moisture content above 19%, little to no spacing is needed, as the boards will shrink as they dry. However, if you dried your boards or are using KDAT, leave 3/16 in. spacing between boards to allow for expansion and contraction.

With all those factors covered and the right fastener for your job on hand, you can take the final step of fastening boards. But this is where you might have done everything right, but the board still has a bow like you can’t believe. That’s where the CAMO LEVER® comes into play. This tool straightens warped boards effortlessly, and you can even tackle it yourself.

Start by setting your board in place and fastening one end. Then, set the joist width on the LEVER—the Single Joist setting accommodates joists 1-½ in. wide, and the Double Joist setting accommodates joists 3 in. wide. Place the LEVER on the joist at the opposite end of the board and tighten the joist cam with the pivot pin. Apply pressure by moving the handle towards the deck board and keep turning until the board is in the desired fastening position. Fasten the board, then release pressure by moving the handle away from the deck board. Then, loosen the joist cam and remove LEVER. That’s it. Follow this process with each board for a straight deck, then seal or stain the surface for added water repellant and a beautiful, long-lasting deck.

Pressure-treated lumber is still an excellent option for building your deck, so long as you treat it right. With this guide in mind and the proper time and tools for the job, you will have a pressure -treated deck you can enjoy for years to come.